Nick's Cove by Kuleto - Tomales Bay

I went back in time to a place that holds many memories of my Papa, Tomales Bay. He lived in Marshall at a trailer court with a boat ramp and dock. He loved to fish. Period. I know he was happiest when on the bay fishing and exploring. Back in the seventies, it was an undiscovered quiet place full of wildlife and spectacular sunsets. It still is.

There were only two restaurants I remember dining in, Tony’s and Nick’s. Both known for oysters, cold beer and local fishermen. Times have changed the bay and especially Nick’s. It has been rebuilt and reclassified as a destination for the weary bay area high living folks to get out of the city. Rustic yet modern, and with a killer view.

Pat Kuleto spent a fortune, $14 million dollars, to rebuild and rebrand the old Nick's Cove. It is as beautiful as the view from the dock. Inviting on a cool foggy day. The warmth of the fire and the sun as it reached through the fog made for a comfortable dining experience waterside.

We started with drinks, a Fogcutter Irish Coffee described as divine, with fresh whipped cream. The wine list was extensive and expensive, hence the $20 corkage fee. I ordered a beer but changed to the Cuvee after reading the menu and discovering that it was special to Nick’s. It was light, crisp, the color of golden wheat, and warmed me through.

The bread served with butter and Hawaiian red smoked sea salt sprinkled on top was a change from a basket of bread. The combination was creamy and smoky deliciousness. It is hard not to chow down on bread when it is so delightful, with the butter of course.

I ordered the fried oysters and my lunch partner ordered the burger. The oysters were crispy on the outside and briny sweet when eaten. The aioli had the right amount of kick and was a perfect match. The oysters served on a bed of leeks and an assortment of cherry tomatoes, red, yellow and orange with greens. The dressing was sweet and paired well with the tomatoes.

My friend did not fare so well with the burger. She asked me if her punishment was ordering a burger in a fish place. She requested medium rare and it came raw-warm. She attempted to cut it and could not get the knife through the burger. It was so coarsely ground that it could not be cut. It was very unattractive and not appetizing. I called the waiter over and before we could say anything, he asked if she needed it cooked longer. So he knew… She then told him that she could not cut it and showed him the clump of meat. He took it back and we were both surprised when he delivered it with what was burnt cheese. It was still not edible nor could it be cut. The heirloom tomato on the burger was wonderful as were the fries. The waiter did not return to the table and ask how it was until he brought the check, served in an abalone shell. She then told him that she could not eat it. He went to the kitchen and came back to tell her that the chef told him it had been ground twice. Like it was her problem, not the chef’s. That was it. He picked up the check and brought it back to be signed.

When is it okay to point out inferior food? When it is delivered, after the attempt to make it right fails or when the check is delivered? Do you bypass the waiter and ask for a manager? We did not. We left feeling split between excellent and inedible food choices. A restaurant that specializes in fish should serve as good a choice for the non-fish eater. Maybe it was an off day but it was our day there. We could not help but leave disappointed.

What gives Nick’s such an inviting ambiance is the unsurpassed view and the casual elegance of the room. Without the burger, the meal could have been as spectacular as my oysters.

As we left, the hostess asked how our meal was. I told her the story and the person standing with her apologized and said he would have liked to know our dissatisfaction before we were walking out the door. In my opinion, that was the waiter’s job. I told her that. He clearly did not go any extra step to satisfy the customer.
I will go back. I will recommend you try it. Just do not get the burger…